New York Fashion Week has been criticized for an excessive amount of fashion shows that lack creativity. It has maintained its relevance, though, because it is still the one bringing in more revenue for the city ($900 million) than any other fashion week or even the Super Bowl.
Designers showing in NYC are known for their strong focus on business and that is why many shows are more centered around what sells rather than an innovative approach. However, there are a few that manage both. Amid the big names such as Oscar de la Renta or Coach 1941, here are a few that should not be neglected.
Sophie Theallet
Sophie Theallet has an enormous talent, honed in the studios of Jean Paul Gaultier and Azzedine Alaïa. It is surely there where she developed a sense for quality and precision. She sources her fabrics from Europe, seen here in the handmade tweeds, velvets or crystal-spattered mesh.
In this collection, she stays true to her vision and offers a wardrobe for diverse women, whatever shape and size. Cleverly, she presented her clothes on models of various ethnicities and body proportions, which further strengthened the feeling of belonging. What surely stands out are the graphic prints that range from leopard to zebra to condensed water on a glass.
Hood by Air
Gender issues, streetwear and sportswear, it might seem that designer Shayne Oliver is trying to address too many issues. Judging by this collection, he is definitely not. Having won the LVMH Special Prize and moved his operations to Milan, he is apt to make this scary mishmash look appealing and cohesive. Not only does he challenge what a woman or a man should be normally accepted wearing, he challenges the clothes themselves.
Pilgrimage collection, Hood By Air
Pilgrimage collection, Hood By Air
Why should a zip finish at the hem, why should there only be two sleeves or why not make a duffel bag unseparate from a garment? Ignoring the established ways of thinking about clothes, he has succeeded in causing a stir in the fashion industry only in a couple of seasons. The collection is titled “Pilgrimage” which astutely relates to the current speed of our lives or the immigration issues.
Pilgrimage collection, Hood By Air
Pilgrimage collection, Hood By Air
The sense of travel is likewise reinforced by the addition of airport luggage stickers and plastic wrappers. For a true conservative, the clothes and the models could look intimidating. But we should bear in mind that creative people are supposed to make us feel uncomfortable so that we question the set principles of today.
The Row
Making a 180° turn, this fashion house is about minimalism, comfort and simplicity. Its true force lies in the luxury fabrics and immaculate cut. It is unfortunate that The Row is not more widely recognized but it seems like the designer duo Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen want it to stay that way.
Minimalism, comfort, simplicity, The Row
For them, it seems like privacy, calmness and an appreciative clientele are of utmost importance. That might even make them more niche and coveted. They staged a presentation in a showroom, sent out handmade invitations and made the place look as relaxed as possible, apparently even serving coffee. A great reaction to the constantly increasing speed of the industry. And calmness permeated the clothes as well.
One could not feel different in their monochromatic dresses made of the finest materials – double-faced cashmere, astrakhan fur or cognac leather. Their style is very minimalistic, loose, and they hold on to an elongated silhouette. Long sleeves, flared trousers or dresses ending almost on the floor. Remember, the force of The Row woman is in understatement rather than overt exposure (of themselves or the body).
Unfortunately, these exquisite and creatively challenging designers (and many others) often get very little praise for their work. The news are splashed by Kanye West’s Yeezy fashion show/music concert or Rihanna’s collaboration with Puma for Fenty x Puma. Unfortunately, it is hard for the general public to see past the mania and lack of creativity. Yeezy Season 3 is hardly distinguishable from 2 and 1. It is telling that they are named Seasons, like a Mexican TV show, where little changes from one to the other and everybody knows the plot beforehand. As for Rihanna’s Fenty x Puma, it was not an inflated show, but the clothes were a mix of many other street brands, Hood By Air among them. Let’s focus on those who actually study the making of clothes.
Sophie Theallet’s collection
Sophie Theallet’s collection
Sophie Theallet’s collection
Sophie Theallet’s collection
Sophie Theallet’s collection
Pilgrimage collection, Hood By Air
Pilgrimage collection, Hood By Air
Pilgrimage collection, Hood By Air
Pilgrimage collection, Hood By Air
Pilgrimage collection, Hood By Air
Pilgrimage collection, Hood By Air
Pilgrimage collection, Hood By Air
The Row fashion house
The Row fashion house
The Row fashion house
The Row fashion house
The Row fashion house
The Row fashion house
The Row fashion house
The Row fashion house
